Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Signing off!


It´s been a blast and now it´s time to come home. We have enjoyed our travels and our blog and hope you have enjoyed sharing our journey. See you soon.
Love Glenn and Roz

Tot ziens
na shledanou
Auf Wiedersehen
viszontlátásra
arrivederci
au revoir
adiós
Good bye!

We were awarded ¨Best Travel Couple of the Year¨



Running into a group of Conde Nast Traveller Magazine contributing editors, we shared our stories over the past 8 weeks with them. Most impressed with our adventures and that we were still smiling and speaking to one another, they invited us to their banquet. We were presented with the pictured trophy, ¨Best Travel Couple of the Year¨. During the press conference, Glenn wouldn´t allow Roz to dish all the dirt!

Our Trip to Toledo




Taking a 30 minute train ride to Toledo, we enjoyed the medieval town and a tour of the old Sephardic synagogue museum, built prior to the expolsion of Jews from Spain in 1492.
Toledo is on a hill top with narrow and winding streets. After seeing one too many repeative tourist shops, we made our way back to the tourist office and asked where the nice shopping and cafe lined streets could be found. With our poor Spanish language, and their lesser ability of speaking English, we thought we communicated our desire. So the ladies put us on a bus and 20 minutes later, the bus driver pointed us to another bus where we finally ended up at the local mall and our cafe was the food court! We´re getting tired and our research and tour plans are not as detailed as they once were.

P.S. True Story....Spain is the most security conscience country that we have visited. We were asked to present our passports upon arriving at the first Spainish train station, nowhere else have we been asked, including airports within Europe, only first point of entry. Every train we have taken in Spain has had a security check point and purse/luggage scanner. Glenn purchased a hunting knife with a 5 inch blade in Toledo. Glenn was asked to put this package through the scanner. The Police asked to look at the package more closely and then had Roz stuff the knife in her small purse. The Policeman watched Roz zip up her purse and had her promise not to open it on the train!

Glenn under protest!


No more museums or palace tours!

Too much Sangria may make objects appear larger in the distance!




While sitting enjoying a pitcher of Sangria over lunch at an overpriced...cheap and crappy with picture menu lunch, though in a lovely square in old town Madrid, Roz turned to Glenn and said, ¨Holy Cow Batman, I think I see Spiderman and it looks like he has put on a few pounds!¨ This prompted Glenn to get a closer look and share the following thoughts with Spiderman:
1. It looks like retirement in Spain has been good to you.
2. Can you web support your extra weight?
3. Can I rub your tummy for one more wish?

Sunday, October 25, 2009

The 15:09 Train to Madrid (3:09pm)

If we were a member of Trip Advisor, here would be our entry.

Dear Trip Advisor,
Train Station rental car drop off in Montpellier, France SUCKS!
Leaving the lovely town of Aix-en-Provence in route to Montpellier to catch a train to Madrid, we had sufficient time for a stop in Les Baux, a medieval, cave filled town. We enjoyed an audio/visual artsy presentation of Picasso images projected in a cave and then walked around this town. At 13:00 we left for Montpellier, our Navigation system confirming arrival at 14:05. Here's what happens next....

14:07 - Top of gas tank, found Roz bathroom.
14:18 - Locate train station per GPS, looking for rental car drop off.
14:26 - Circle train station looking for rental car drop off, send Roz inside station for guidance.
14:32 - Roz returns and points in the opposite direction, no one confesses to speaking English.
14:41 - Circle train station again, there is no sign of the rental car return.
14:45 - Roz enters train station thru another door and looks for help, there is no one.
14:50 - Circle to front of train station, Glenn parks car on the sidewalk, after turning into the bus lane and is tempted to call Europcar to advise them where he left the car, keys under the mat and wants to tell them to come quick. Instead Roz tells Glenn to go inside the station and find his own directions. As Roz sits in the car while pedestrians walk around the car, she is now getting nervous.
14:57 - Glenn comes running towards the car and points in the opposite direction, turns the car around, mind you he is going the wrong way on the bus/tram rail tracks. Roz indicates you can't do that, and Glenn states "What the F____ it's a rental car" but wait there's a large gap/ditch in the road that would have sunk us. So he proceeds turn around and finds the tram with driver patiently staring at us. Rolling down the window, still on the tracks, a potential person to ask for help is long winded, in French, pointing to the rental car return. Roz indicates to move it, there's a tram on the on rail coming towards us!
15:07 -After making a few illegal turns, and running a red light, while on a bridge, down below we see the rental car return.
15:17 - Arrive at rental car return. Glenn advises the counter clerk that there are no signs pointing to this location and the clerk confirms that they are aware of it.
15:25 - Stand in ticket line at train station, need new plan. By the way, it's a holiday weekend in France and the ticket line is very long.

Here's what we wanted to post on Craigslist.....

"Available Friday, one night stay in very nice hotel in Madrid, paid for.......call Glenn and Roz in Barcelona at this pay phone number!"

23:17 - Arrive in Barcelona train station with no where to stay. Glenn points out the window
and indicates that the benches look comfortable and the station is clean.

SATURDAY MORNING......after having spent the night at a hotel across the street from the train station (yes that means we paid for two nice hotel rooms that previous night), we set out to cross the street to return to the train station for a 9:00 AM train to Madrid. As we were walking, Glenn hears a splat and looks around at his suitcase and notices what looks like bird turd. A guy says it was a bird, but from the looks of the amount, it looked like the whole flock dumped simutanenously, aiming at not only his suitcase, but backpack as well. This one guy came over with a tissue offering his assistance, and then another guy from a different direction getting in between us. Glenn suspiciously advised Roz to hold onto our bags and we high tailed it into the station. A massive clean up was in order. We think this was a diversionary tact to catch us off guard and was likely oatmeal or grits tossed onto our suitcase.

In our 7 weeks of travel, this was our most challenging 24 hours!

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Aix-en-Provence

No photos to share from Aix-en-Provence because it's been raining! We are staying in a beautiful boutique hotel called Villa Gallici, with a great room and a window out to our garden patio that sadly can't be enjoyed. This town is very crowded and parking is awful. It was easier for us to take a taxi to dinner last night and get dropped off at the resturant than navigate parking and curving streets. Thursday is one of three market days in town.....farmer's and flea/antique. Our good fortune allowed us half a day of sunshine to enjoy walking around. We spent extended time at the olive and tapenade table. The vendor sampled us with so many yummy options, that we walked away with several jars. We're catching a train tomorrow (Friday) for a 10 hours ride to Madrid. First time our last minute planning has failed us because seat reservations for the train were all sold out for our original planned departure on Saturday.

P.S. We need to comment about the French local people. They have been pleasant, friendly and helpful. We have rarely run into any attitudes (well Glenn thought that maybe the girl at the bakery coffee shop this morning wasn't pleased with him). There was this nice young man at a train station a number of days ago who had confirmed that we were on the right train. We got off at the same station and he walked ahead with his friends, only to come running back to me to help with my luggage down and up a number of stairs. He commented to me that he was young and could easily help me out. Perhaps he was concerned that Glenn's face was turning red and best not to allow him to come back for me.

No mustard in Dijon!


While spending 3 days in Beaune, France, we took a day trip to Dijon via the Burgundy wine region. Although the vines are turning to fall colors, grapes remain on some vines and picking continues. Wine touring here is completely different than Napa. The wineries are numerous, often smaller family owned and do not offer tours or tasting. When we asked about tastings, some locals told us that we could attempt to find a chateau winery and knock on the door. We did self tour this one very old winery, featuring grape presses dating back some 600 years. To Glenn's pleasure, an antique auto club came driving up, Glenn having me pose with his choice. We drove on to Dijon and were disappointed to find that almost everything was closed on Sunday. Thumbs down Dijon! Thumbs up to Lyon, France where we spent one night. Lyon is lovely with a great walking area. Our self portrait is taken from the Notre Dame of Lyon hilltop. By the way, for the first time during our travels, we went to the movies and saw "the Informant"........it was more interesting to stare at the french sub-titles than watch this awwwwwful movie.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Beaune, France (the Burgundy Wine Region)

Only 50 minutes from Interlaken, we stopped in Bern, Switzerland stored our luggage in lockers and strolled the medieval, but very commercial town of Bern. Back on the train, three hours later, we arrived in Beaune, France, Friday night. We love the town of Beaune, it's so charming and walkable. This morning we strolled the outdoor farmers market (cheese, meats, breads, fish, vegetables, etc.) and picked out our lunch. Beaune is in the heart of the Burgundy wine region, where the famous international wine auction is held here every November. The wine caves of Patriarche was our wine tour of the day. For 10 euros, we tasted 13 wines, all self poured. Unfortunately we didn't like any, but we both thought this was the most awesome wine tour and tasting we had ever experienced. The tunnels kept going and going, filled with unlabeled, dusty wine bottles, spanning the decades. We were told that the wine is labeled as released because the humidity was not good for the labels. Walking through the dark tunnels, we came upon the tasting section, wine barrel tables lit by candles. You just stop and pour.











Schilthorn, Switzerland

Another day trip, this time only a 10,000 foot elevation mountain peak. Schilthorn is known for the early James Bond movie "Her Majesty's Secret Service". This trip took only 2 hours to get there, on two trains and four suspended cable cars. Switzerland is quite picturesque, just like seen in a movie, so the journey is quite enjoyable. On the last cable car ride up, the cloud cover was very thick, at one point no visibility and then suddenly a break through the clouds. Stunning! The wind was mild on this day, so although cold, we were able to stay outside longer. Funny, you'd think we never saw snow, it was fun. The Matterhorn peak is visible from here. This Schilthorn area is skiable. On our return back to Interlaken we took a stop at Trummelbach, 10 waterfalls fed by the glaciers, falling inside a mountain. There's an elevator inside the mountain we rode up.

Trip to Jungfrau from Interlaken, Switerland

Interlaken is a quaint little town between two lakes with beautiful scenic snow capped mountains surrounding the area. We stayed three days and took daily side trips. From our hotel window, we could see the glacier called Jungfrau and because it was visible, it seemed like a good day to venture over. Jungfrau is 11,500 feet high and refered to as the "Top of Europe". After a 2 1/2 hour train ride, with the last 30 minutes riding inside a tunnel in the mountain glacier, we emerged to below zero celcius temperature and winds. Burrrrr! We were above the clouds, so the view was clear and stunning. There was also an ice tunnel with ice cravings, a permanent structure. The floor and sides of the tunnel, all ice, was amazingly smooth and not slippery. Of course, on a train stop on our return, Glenn is seen here considering his next meal.


Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Things we learned from traveling with Scott Nathan.

Always be prepared with the basics……food in Ziploc bags, wine, flashlight, antacids, hand sanitizer, IPOD speaker……These items came in handy during our 14 hour overnight journey on a Soviet era, Hungarian train. The journey began fairly smoothly; we settled into our private sleeper suite (closet size) and enjoyed many laughs. A visit to the toilet proved interesting (see photo). Upon taking a seat, a breeze was felt. Interestingly enough, one could see the train tracks below. We were tempted to drop a note down…get us off this train (this is where the hand sanitizer came was useful)! As Roz entertained with her singing, Glenn studied the posted sign posted above the window not to through any bottles out the window and thought out loud “Why is it ok to defecate on the tracks and not ok to toss a biodegradable out the window?” Before bed, we were informed that the custom and passport patrols would enter the sleeper train…..12, 2, 4 am with a gentle (ha ha) rap on the door with their night sticks. Now we have traveled all over Europe, crossing borders without passports or check points. When booking the sleeper car trip from Budapest to Venice, little did we know that we were crossing two non-EU countries…..Croatia and Slovenia. Border crossing coupled with a train engineer and his heavy brake foot at so many stops that made you feel you were going to fall out of bed, this sleepless in Budapest train ride was one for the memory books. Our train trip a day later from Venice to Interlaken, Switzerland in comparison was heavenly, first photo above.


Sunday, October 11, 2009

Budapest, Hungary

Played at being a tourist in Budapest in the morning; mixed with the locals and international community in the afternoon at the Thermal Turkish Bath House. We steamed, saunaed, and sat in the varying tempered Thermal whirlpools, 35 hot and cold in total. Lost count along the way. Enjoying Budapest, but looking for a change of food.....Eastern and Central European food is very similar but Glenn is enjoying the Goulash. Leaving on a night train tonight for Venice, Italy trying to make our way to Switzerland.


Second Largest Synagogue in Europe, Budapest


After seeing so many lavishly large churches, it was nice to see this synagogue. It's the second largest in Europe. Unfortunately we are unable to tour the Synagogue or it's museum because we arrived by train on Friday afternoon and the tours ended at 3:30 and it's closed on Sunday for Simcha Torah. We did have an opportunity to see inside though as we attended the Shabbat service. Three levels of seating tall with mosaics, gold leaf decor and an ornate Bimah. Men and women sat seperately, on opposite side of the aisles so we were able to hand sign back and forth. Seemed to be 3 Rabbis with tall head coverings and a choir with a very large Organ. Sitting in front of some Americans, they told me this was Reform, so that made some sense but still European observation is very different. We did hear that the Budapest Jewish community is more than 80,000 strong.....quite different from Prague. The service was well attended and Reform short!

Our Night at the Opera


Notice those little screens in front of us....thank goodness, helped us understand what was going on.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Vienna, Austria (Day like any other day!)

Well Vienna is certainly more picturesque than these photos show but we haven't downloaded those pictures yet. The biking tour dropped us off in Vienna on Tuesday morning and we taxied over to the Hotel Bristol (what a beautiful hotel in the center of town). The Concierge at the hotel became our best friend. I strode up to him and told him we have been traveling for 5 weeks and need some services (I'm sure he thought we were coming off the mountain!). So basically Tuesday was like any other day at home.....dry cleaners, laundromat, postal service, haircut for Glenn and a hair dye touch up for Roz (hated him for taking that picture). I'm sure we were a sight walking back and forth through the elegant lobby with our over stuffed backpacks and onto the trolley. But we have enjoyed the past two days touring the palaces and museums as well as meeting up with 11 of our biking friends for dinner. We have just returned (Thursday night) from the Vienna Opera House and seeing La Boehme in a balcony box nonetheless. We had met a fellow Californian gentlemen that told Glenn that the Opera wasn't so bad and is wasn't. We're inexperienced, who knew, but each seat had a little translation screen so we were able to follow along. Vienna is renowned for music of all types, so we made like Europeans and enjoyed the show along with the beautiful surroundings of the building. It was a moment!

Great end to the Biking Trip



The last two days of the biking trip were as great as all the others. We enjoyed a ride on a River Barge on the Danube River, used as our transport over to the Austrian countryside. Aside from being a cool morning, we enjoyed the scenery and a ride through a river lock (like the Panama Canal). The weather was warm and enjoyable once the morning fog lifted. We mostly rode for these two days along the Danube River and the last day riding through the wine country as well. It was picking season for the white and red grapes. The local red grape/wine is St. Laurent which we have shared and drank our way through many bottles. This biking trip was wonderful, with an amazing group of travelers we now call friends. We all had a secret cyclist during the trip, picked on the first day and giving us reason to mingle and learn about each other from the beginning. The last night we all made presentations along with a little gift. What a delightfully humorous evening we enjoyed.

Saturday, October 3, 2009

From Germany to Austria and back

Saturday's 22 mile ride was perfect. Our hotel is situated at the crossing of three rivers: Danube, Inn and Ilz. We rode along the river Inn all day. It was cold in the morning as the fog lifts from the rivers but as the sun broke through, we began shedding layers. We crossed over to Austria, enjoyed a picnic along the river prepared by our guides and then headed back to Germany.







Biking from Czech Across the German Border

We boarded a Czech train on Friday morning, see picture below, for a 1 1/2 hour ride through the Sumava National Park. It was very picturesque, rolling hills and many lakes. We then hoped on our bikes for a ride through heavily forested rolling paved bike paths. About two hours into our ride, we crossed over the German Border. This was the Iron Curtain, separating East from West, (Czech from Germany) closed in 1948. Up until 20 years ago, this was heavily fenced and guarded. Today we just crossed over, no passport control, no guard gate, nothing, foot and bike traffic only. Our altitude was high, the day cloudy, so at points we were freezing. Although the main ride, 29 miles, had some hills and gravel paths, it was an easier and more enjoyable ride thru the countryside. Roz was proud to accomplish the 29 miles. Glenn, along with 9 others, chose to do the 15 additional optional hilly miles, showing up 2 hours later totally beat and numb from the waist down. We're both proud of our accomplishments.



Thursday, October 1, 2009

Bike Trip Cesky Krumlov, Czeck Republic


We joined our bike trip, Vermont Biking Trip (VBT) yesterday.
Yesterday was a short 8 mile warm up ride outside Cesky, today out towards the country outside of Cesky. Basically you settled in a hotel for 2 days and then ride around the area returning to the hotel. We are a group of 16, all from the states, all great folks and many participants that ride alot. For one couple, this is their 8th VBT trip, another their 4th. I was joking around saying that a least there's proof that VBT gets all the riders to the end. Today's trip was a total of 27 miles, which Glenn accomplished amazingly. By the way, this easy trip rating had lots of hills today. I (Roz) took advantage of the Headstart ride, which was a van ride to the top of the beginning first hill, and caught another ride up a hill. I promise you, I did plenty enough hills today, the proof is in my butt, only few miles less than Glenn. The scenery is amazing beautiful, great way to see a country. Wish I could have taken more pictures, but I was too busy trying to breathe riding up hill on the bike. The guides promised us this was the hardest day. Tomorrow off to catch a train and then ride across the German border that is only open to bike and foot traffic, closed in 1944. Got to go, soooooo tired and it hurts to sit here.

Prague has so much history


We really enjoyed Prague and could have spent another day or two. Spent good portion of the day touring the Jewish Ghetto, now historic Jewish Quarter. This area is a UNESCO protected site and is the 3rd largest tourist attraction for museums in the world, behind the Louvre and British Museum. Sadly as you tour through, plus the experience of a very small Yom Kippur services we attended, you sense Hitler accomplished what he set out to do. This was once a vibrant Jewish community with 70 synagogues, now maybe only 15oo registered Jews receiving services in the community. Overall between the Nazis followed by 4 decades of Communist rule, this country is very non-observant in all religions. We have alot to share about Prague with you when we return.

P.S. to Linda: Czech is a Slavic language same as Russian, Polish and Yiddish. I hear so much familiarity from various conversation, but it's difficult to string together.